Indian Bead Work 



... BY... 

H. L. MUMM, 

WAUSAU, WIS. 

(copyrighted.) 

U>EAD WORK as a pastime 
among the Indians is very 
old. Since the days when Cortez 
gave the Inca kings beads of 
bright and shining colors in ex- 
change for gold, the simple mind- 
ed children of American wilds 
have taken delight in weaving and braiding them. 
The canoe, the moccasin, the leather head dress and 
the bow and arrow are not more common among 
the numerous aboriginal tribes today than are the 
bead belts, sashes, chains, purses, hair bands hand 
bags, necklaces, bead garters, leggings, saddle 
bags, tobacco pouches, pipe sacks, awl pockets, 
knife shields, jackets and blankets, all woven in, 
countless beautiful designs. It is scarcely to be 
wondered at that this art of the red man has been 
recognized by the pale face and that the craze for 
Indian bead work has lately spread to all parts of 
the country. It affords a singularly delightful and 
fascinating recreation, as well as furnishing hand 
made articles of useful and ornamental nature. 
The bead work made by the Chippewas, Winne- 




bagoes, Pottowatomies, Apaches, Cheyennes, Sioux 
and Mexican Indian tribes, possesses peculiar 
beauty, and is invested with romantic charm. 
The quaint combination of colors, the crudely con- 
ventionalized designs, each having its own especial 
significance, together with the patient and untiring 
effort required to do the more complicated pieces 
of work, cannot help but appeal to every lover of 
handcraft. Yet anyone can easily do bead work. 
With a good loom to work upon, real Indian pat- 
terns and colors, such as we urnish, and the iden- 
tical kinds of beads that the Indians use, you can 
obtain results that will look and wear as well 
as real Indian work. The designs we supply 
you are choice selections, made during personal 
v isits to the tribal wigwams, and the beads we 
urnish are just like those used by squaws, and 
worn by sachems long before Min ne-ha-ha's time. 

CHIPPEWA BEAD WORK. 

Having selected the design you 
wish to make, thread the loom as 
follows : 

Extend the loom to half the 
length of your design, allowing 
plenty of thread for finishing the 
ends. Tie one end of thread to brass hook and 
hold about three inches from the comb. Wrap 
the thread around the spool with comb, commenc- 
ing in the middle and also around spool at the 
other end and then pass around the other end 

2 




of the brass loop ; return again around the 
spools to loop, always passing thread on dif- 
ferent side of the first thread. Tie the last thread 
to the loop. Draw the threads as tight as possible. 
For the lengthwise thread, use No. 60, linen, either 
white or colored, according to the background of 
the design. 

Having strung the loom, take No. B silk or No. 
50 cotton, with a No. 13 needle, and string the 
beads as shown by the pattern card for the first 
row. Place these under the strings on the loom, 
so that the threads come between the beads. 
When they are correctly placed, run the needle 
back through the beads, taking care that the 
needle this time passes over each of the loom 
threads, and when the thread is pulled through, 
tie to the other end to hold the first row in place, 
and proceed with each succeeding row, as directed, 
except that after the first row it is not necessary to 
tie at the end. 

NEW THREAD. 

When a new thread is necessary, run back 
through three or four rows and cut off, starting the 
new one by running through three or four rows 
also. 



The 

Chippewa 
adjustable 
1 o o m is the 
simplest and 
most complete 
loom made. It 
can he adjust- 
ed to an y 
length, up to 
56 inches, and 
is so arranged 
that the warp 
can always be 
kept tight, 
s o m e t h in g 
very essential 
in doing good 
work. 

There are 
a great many 
styles of bead- 
work made by 
different tribes, 
the most com- 
mon being that 
made by the 
great nation of 
the Chippe- 
was. 



FINISHING. 




There are several ways in 
which the ends of the belt can 
be finished. Leaving the loom 
threads about three inches long- 
er than the belt, gather them 
into four or five groups of an 
equal number of threads and 
tie each group with a knot close 
to the beads. To this the In- 
dians often add a further finish by taking two 
threads of gaily colored yarn two feet long, 
which they pull through the knot described 
above, to the centre of the yarn, so that there 
are four threads to braid. These are then 
braided as far as the loom threads go, braiding the 
loom threads in, and then allowed to hang loose 
from there on. 

Another finish is made by sewing a piece of 
buckskin or chamois skin over the end, doubling 
it over so as to cover each side of the end, and 
sewing down through about three rows of beads. 
Let it project about two inches beyond the beads, 
and punch eyelet holes to lace with leather thong. 

A very pretty finish to the belt is made by put- 
ting extra beads outside the outer loom thread, 
along the edge. This is done by putting the extra 
bead on before the regular row on one end and 
after it at the other, but only at every second or 
third row. 



FINISHING FOBS. 



In making a fob, set the loom at required length, 
and start the first row, at the centre of the loom, 
disregarding the point, which must be made 
after the fob is done. When the design is worked, 
go back and put on the point, this is done by 
dropping two beads from each row, and as the row 
is put on draw the unused loom threads in. As 
the centre is neared, and the loom threads begin to 
"pull" cut the outside threads, as near the end as 
possible, but do not cut any faster than necessary. 

In order to fasten as the work proceeds, when 
the needle is returned, put it through three beads 
of the preceeding row, going under the loom 
threads, and come back to place through two beads 
of the row you are then working on, coming back 
to place over the loom threads. When the end 
of the point is reached, cut the remaining loom 
threads and divide into three strands and braid, 
winding and tying at the end of the braid. 

Then remove the fob from the loom, and cut 
the ends of the threads. Thread one outer thread 
into the needle, and run it back through several 
rows, and then do the same thing with the other 
outer thread. Then take each loom thread, and 
string as many beads as there are in the width of 
the fob, skip the last bead and run the thread 
through the rest of the string, and tie it firmly at 
the end, into the thread of the fob. A pleasing 
variation of this fringe may be made by. skipping 



from four to six beads in going back through the 
row, which leaves a little knob at the end of the 
fringe. 

Another fringe is made by first tying the ends 
of the loom threads down and cutting them off, 
and overcasting the last row to hold the end down. 
Then the fringe is strung on a long thread, and 
looped in at the end of the fob. 

Where the bottom of fob is finished with fringe 
the top may be finished by narrowing the fob to a 
point of five or seven beads and then making eight 
or ten rows of that width, always leaving thr ad 
long enough to make a braid of sufficient length 
to fasten to watch. 

If you prefer we will send you metal fastenings 
with swivel attachment, this makes a neater look- 
ing fob. 

The Pottowatomies are credited with doing the 
best and most intricate beadwork. They have 
three ways of doing the w T ork. 

SINGLE WARP POTTOWATOMIE. 

Threads running lengthwise are called the warp; 
threads used for weaving are called woof. 

Thread the loom as before. Tie one end of 
thread to warp, then take wooden needle and pass 
between the warp so that each alternate thread is 
above the needle; then pass your thread through. 
Do this two or three times, reversing wooden 
needle each time. This is done to give good 
finish. After this, string beads according to your 

7 



& 5 
0 £ 

~ 2 s 

£ s? 

§ 2 

^ 2 ? 
- t ? 

0 tt o 
Q 1 




design and work in the same way, having one 
warp between each of the beads, but half of them 
being above and other halt below. By changing 
the wooden needle each time the beads are held 
firmly in place. This is a rapid way of doing the 
work. 

DOUBLE WARP POTTOWATOMIE. 

Thread the loom as before, 
only make each warp double, 
that is have two threads be- 
tween each tooth of comb. 
Continue as in the single warp 
work. This can also be done 
rapidly and makes work that is 
stronger and wears better than any other. 

DIAGONAL POTTOWATOMIE. 

Fasten on to end of loom the Pottowatomie 
attachment with the two screws, at other end of 
loom place small tack. This work is all clone with 
the thread double. Take as many threads as there 
are beads in your pattern, two and one-half times 
the length you desire. Take the middle of your 
threads and pass over tack in end of loom, braid- 
ins; them for about half an inch. Take each 
double thread, all but last one, and wind around 
one of pegs and place in holes in attachment. 
Take last thread and string first bead of your de- 
sign. Take out first peg and pass between the 
woof and press tight against the bead, string 

9 



another bead and pass next peg between the woof, 
continue until the pegs have been used, then string 
last bead and fasten the woof around peg and place 
in last hole. Then commence with the first thread 
on the side you started with and continue as 
before. The beads must be pressed tight diagon- 
ally in the beginning and continued so. Always 
move the pegs up one hole in weaving, and they 
will always come out right. The woof after going 
across becomes part of warp and the first warp 
becomes the woof. This work is very tedious but 
its beauty and rarity are sufficient to repay for 
the excessive trouble. 




410 



220 



219 



SIOUX BEAD WORK. 

The Sioux Indians do a great deal of bead work 
which looks beautiful and is easily made. It con- 
sists in sewing short strings of beads, generally 
ten or twelve, on cloth or buckskin, the needle 
going through the material and coming up through 
the last bead, forming a continuous line of beads. 

1(5 




400 



221 



CHEYENNE BEAD WORK. 



A great deal of nice work is done by the Chey- 
ennes. Their work is done by stringing the 
designs on thread, and then with another thread 
sewing through one bead in every three or four 
and fastening the same to cloth or other material. 

MEXICAN BEAD WORK. 

This work is made in a different manner from 
any other, only one thread being used. To facili- 
tate the work tack or sew a strip of any cloth, the 
width of your pattern, around the loom. Fasten 
thread No. 40, to edge of cloth, then string as 
many beads as there are in your pattern. Sew to 
other edge of cloth securely. Break off thread 
and fasten to first bead; string first bead of pat- 
tern, and then pass thread through second bead of 
the first string. Continue this way, stringing one 
bead and then passing thread through second 
bead, back and forth. When completed cut first 
thread. In this work the beads do not come 
together in straight rows but diagonally. The 
work is simple and easily made and the effect is 
pleasing. 

INDIAN PURSES. 

Make a buckskin or chamois bag the size you 
desire. String beads six at a time, making string 
long enough to reach around bag, pass the thread 
through first one, make a scallop of seven beads and 
pass the thread through the sixth bead. Continue 
all around until circle is complete. Pass the thread 

20 



501 



505 



505 



510 



215 



29 



218 



through first four beads of last scallop ; make seal- 
lop of seven beads and pass the thread through 
the fourth bead of each scallop, continue this until 
you have as many rows as desired. Fasten last 
half row of scallops together and finish with fringe. 
Then sew to bag with a few stitches here and 
there. In making this work the beads may be all 
of one color, or the center bead in each scallop 
may be different, or the rows may be of different 
colors. 

25 



Bead Purse No. 399, with 
metal top. Take D button 
hole twist and fasten to hole in 
metal top ; string 8 beads 
loosely and pass twist through 
next hole in top. Continue 
around top to starting place, 
then pass twist through four 
beads and make a knot ; string 
8 beads and pass around twist 
between fourth and fifth bead 
making a knot. Continue this 
until length desired is obtained. 
Tie center of last row of scal- 
lops together and finish with 
fringe. 

Figure No. 400 is another 
purse. Use D button hole 
twist. String 90 beads fastening first and last 
together ; string six beads and then pass twist 
around between the sixth and seventh bead making 
a knot. Make 8 rows this way; then make 7 rows 
without joining together, leaving an opening; then 
make 8 rows as before. Tie the centers of scallop 
of each end together and finish with fringe. Do 
not make too tight. (Page 17.) 

Bead collar No. 410 and belt 500 are made same 
as Indian purses. (Pages IS and 28.) 

No. 501 is an Indian Rattlesnake chain. Cover 
small cord with bright flannel; sew thread to one 

26 




CHEYENNE BEAD PURSE. 

end and string five beads; sew to cord forming 
small scallop. Three of these will reach around 
cord; continue this, passing thread through the 
third bead and sewing to cord occasionally. 
(Page 21.) 

No. 505 is Mahavojo girdle and is made of 8 
strings of beads braided together. (Page 21.) 

No. 506 is belt made of 4 double strings of 
beads woven together. (Page 21.) 

No. 510 is one of the famous diagonal Pottowa- 
tomie hair bands. (Page 21.) 

Any further information cheerfully given on 
receipt of stamps for reply. 

27 




98 



PRICE LIST ; BELTS 



For the convenience of those who do not like to pur- 
chase bunches of so many different kinds of beads, we put 
in enough beads to make each of the following articles. 
The designs include cut of the design, and also the printed 
details of each row, enabling anyone to do the work in 
one-half the time. 



Price Priee 

No. Design of Design of Beads 

28 Oriental Arrow Head 10 .30 

Length. 24 In.: Width, 1% In.; 25 Bends, 26 
Threads Colors: Pink, white, Black, Brown, 
Green, Gold and Yellow. 

30 Star 10 .30 

Length. 24 In.; Width. 114 In ; 23 Beads. 24 
Threads. 4 Colors: White, Gold. Blue and Red. 

31 Hour Glass 10 .30 

Length 28 1 / 2 In ; Width, \% In.; 23 Beads, 24 
Threads. 4 Colors: Orange, Pink. Purple and 
Light Blue. 

32 Silvered Elm Leaf 10 .30 

Length 25 In.; Width 1% In.; 21 Beads 22 
Threads 5 Colors: White, Blue, Red Silver 
and (ir> en„ 

34 Six-bar Star 10 .30 

Length. 25 In.; Width \]/ 2 In.; 29 Beads. 30 
Threads. 4 Colors: Blue, Purple, Gold and 
Gre j n. 

3. r > Diamond and Hour Glass 10 .30 

Length, 26 In ; Width. 1% In.; 20 Reads. 21 
Threads. 4 Colors: Red, White. Bine and 

m Double Starred Diamond 10 .30 

Length. 2 In ; Width 1% In ; 18 Heads, 19 
ThreadN 3 -dolors: Pink. Yellow and Silver 

37 Clustered Elm Leaf .10 .30 

Length, 24 In ; Width 1% In.; 18 Reads. 19 
Threads. 4 Colors: Light Blue Dark Blue, 
Silver and Red 

38 Double Diamond 10 .30 

Length 25 In.; Width. \y A In ; 23 Reads. 24 
Threads. 3 Colors: Red. Yellow and Green. 

39 Beetle 10 .30 

Length. 23 In. ; Width. 1 In : 18 Reads. 19 Threads. 
2 Colors: Lavender and Silver. 

40 Eight Point Star 10 .30 

Length. 28 In.; Widt'-. \% In.; 29 Reads 3i 
Threads 3 Colors: Yellow. Pink and Rlue 

41 Arrow Head 10 .30 

Length 28 In.; Width. 1% In.: 21 Read , 22 
Thre ds. b< olors: Yellow. Rlue Green. Gold 
and Black 



29 



Price Price 

No. Design of Design of Beads 

43 Checker Board 10 .30 

Length, 23 In.; Width, 1% In.: 18 Beads, 19 
Threads. 4 Colors: Yellow, Red, Blue and 
Lavender. 

44 Clover Leaf 10 .30 

Length 30^ In.; Width, 1% In.; 21 Beads, 22 
Threads. 3 Colors: Red, Blue and White. 

46 Open Heart 10 .30 

Length, 28 In. ; Width, 1 In. ; 19 Beads 20 Threads. 
4 Colors: Green, Pink, Blue and Gold. 

47 Winnebago Design 10 .30 

Length, 25 In.; Width, \% In.; 23 Beads, 24 
Threads. 5 Colors: Green, Blue, Red, Orange 
and Opalescent. 

48 Winnebago Design. . 10 .30 

Length. 24 In.; Width, 1% In ; 26 Beads, 27 
Threads. 6 Colors: Purple, Pink, White, Red, 
Green and Olive. 

49 Snowball 10 .30 

Length 24 In.; Width, 1% In.; 19 Beads. 20 
Threads 4 Colors: Lavender, Purple, Yellow 
and Red. 

50 Morex 10 .30 

Length, 27 In.; Width, 1% In.; 27 Beads. 28 
Threads. 4 Colors : Gold. Red. Blue and White. 

52 Winnebago Design 10 .30 

Length 24% In.; Width, 1 In.; 18 Beads, 19 
Threads. 3 Colors: Bl^ck, Blue and Silver. 

53 Doable Diamond 10 .30 

Length, 24 In.; Width ,1% In.; 19 Beads, 20 
Threads. 4 Colors: White, Heliotrope, Olive 
Green and Blue. 

55 Pyramid and Snake's Head 10 .30 

Length, 26 In.; Width, 1% In.; 23 Beads, 24 
Threads 8 Colors: Pink. White, Black, Am- 
ber, Yellow. Green. Brown and Blue. 

57 Elm Leaf 10 .30 

Length, 25 In.; Width. iy 3 In.; 18 Beads, 19 
Threads. 3 Colors: Gold, Red and Pink. 

58 Elm Leaf 10 .30 

Length. 24 In.; Width. iy s In.; 21 Beads, 22 
Threads 5 Colors: Gold, Green, Yellow, Light 
Blue and Black. 

59 Cross-bar and Diamond 10 .30 

Length, 24 In.; Width. 1% In.; 19 Beads, 20 
Threads. 3 Colors: Pink, Green and Gold. 

60 Reversed Elm Leaf 10 .30 

Length. 24 In.; Width. \\i In.; 25 Beads, 26 
Threads. 4 Colors: Lavender, Red, Green and 
Gold. 

61 Winnebago Design 10 .30 

Length, 24 In.; Width, V/ 2 In.; 31 Beads, 32 
Threads. 4 Colors: ©live Green, Gold, Helio- 
trope and Light Blue. 

62 Winnebago Design 10 .30 

Length, 24 In.; Width, \% In.; 23 Beads, 24 
Threads. 2 Colors: Purple and Orange. 

30 



Price Price 

No. Design of Design of Beads 

84 Winnebago Design 10 .30 

Length, 26 In ; Width, 1% in. Colors: Blue, 
red green yellow and dark blue. 

86 Twin Leaf Design 10 .30 

Length, 22 In ; Width. \% In.; 31 Beads, 32 
Threads. Colors: Brown, Dark Blue, White, 
Yellow and Light Blue. 

94 Flying Bird 10 .30 

Wid'h, iy 2 In. Colors, blue and white. 

98 Oak Leaf 10 .30 

Length, 26 In.; Width, \% In. Colors: Blue, 
purple, red. green and gold. 

106 Bleeding Heart 10 .30 

Width, iy z In. Colors, white, dark blue, light 
blue and red. 

FOBS 

Price Price 

No. Design of Design of Beads 

29 Oriental Arrow Head 10 .10 

Length. 5 In.; Width \y± In.; 25 Beads, 26 
Threads. 5 Colors: Pink, White, Black, Brown 
and Green. 

41£Anw Head 10 .10 

Length. \y 2 In; Width, 1% In ; 21 Beads, 22 
Threads. 5 Colors: Yellow, Blue. Green, Gold 
and Black. 

200 Heart and Star 10 .15 

Length, 6 In.; Width. 2 In. Colors: White, yel- 
low red dark green, light green blue, black 
and pink. 

201 Double Heart 10 .10 

Length, 5 In. ; Width, 1*4 In. ; 15 Beads, 16 Threads. 
3 Colors: Yellow. Blue and Brown. 

211 Winnebago Design 10 .10 

Length. 5 In Width \% In. Colors, white, red, 
green and blue. 

212 Winnebago Design 10 .10 

Length. 5 In. Width, \% In. Colors, white, pur- 
ple, blue and green. 

215 Chippewa 10 .10 

Colors, amber, white and blue. 

216 Chippewa 10 .10 

Colors amber, blue, white and red. 

217 Chippewa. 10 .10 

Colors, green, yellow, lavender and white. 

218 Winnebago 10 .10 

Colors red, white and green. 

219 Apache 10 .10 

Colors green, white, yellow, lavender and red. 

220 Winnebago 10 .10 

Colors, white, red and blue. 

221 Winnebago 10 .10 

Colors, black, white and blue. 

31 



NOV 13 1903 



CHAINS 

Price Price 

No. Design of Design of Beads 

1 Neck Chain 10 .10 

Length, 52 In. Colors, yellow, green, blue and 
gold. 

2 Neck Chain . 10 .10 

Length, 52 In Colors, yellow and blue. 

3 Neck Chain .10 

Length, 52 In. Color, blue. 

4 Neck Chain 10 .10 

Length 56 In. Colors, vellow, green and white 

5 Neck Chain 10 .10 

Length, 52 In. Colors, white, brown, yellow, 
green and pink. 

6 Neck Chain 10 



Length, 50 In. Colors, pink, black, green and 
gold. 



10 

med- 



Indian tanned buckskin for purses — small size, 15c; 
ium, 20c; large size, 25c. Bar and swivel attachment for 
fobs — gilt or oxidized copper, 12c; gold plated, 50c. 
Beads, any color, 25c per bunch; gold beads, 20c; cut 
steel, 16c 

Any of the above will be sent postpaid, 
upon receipt of price. 



Chippewa Loom, 50 cents. 
Chippewa Loom, with Pottowatomte attachment, 
75 cents. 
Sent to any address prepaid. 

H. L. MUMM, 

WAUSAU, WIS. 



* 



